how to achieve prop blur

[GeoffS]

1/250 second is about as fast as you can go and get any blur on a typical prop.
1/30 will usually give you a pretty good blur (nearly full-circle).

Slower shutter-speed is better (obviously ), and higher RPM props give better blur for a given shutter-speed (also obviously...).
More prop blades give better blur (smaller angle of rotation required before adjacent blades overlap).

There's a spreadsheet around somewhere that gives "full disk" shutter speed for various RPM and number-of-blades combinations.

Planes on their takeoff roll are usually powered up pretty well (fast), and planes landing are usually idling (slow).
When you're shooting taxing planes, you can often hear when they power up (ex. to start moving or turn) and snap a shot when the prop is moving most rapidly.

The other thing to look for is what the blurred disk will look like.  In the wrong light a really blurred prop can almost disappear, in which case you might want to increase the shutter speed so the prop is visible at all.  Under the right lighting (good reflections from the prop blades and/or nice contrasty colors) you can get some spectacular shapes and colors from the disk.

Cheers,

Geoff S.

[bcradio]

This shot was hand held, 1/60th of a second at 300mm.  Lucky, but I also tried something new.  With the camera strap around my neck, I held the camera away from my body, so the strap was taut around my neck.  This kind of stabilized it, and I was still able to see (somewhat) through the viewfinder to compose the shot.  I've used this technique a few times, and it works for those days you don't have your tripod or monopod handy.

[BillF]

This shot was hand held, 1/60th of a second at 300mm.  Lucky, but I also tried something new.  With the camera strap around my neck, I held the camera away from my body, so the strap was taut around my neck.  This kind of stabilized it, and I was still able to see (somewhat) through the viewfinder to compose the shot.  I've used this technique a few times, and it works for those days you don't have your tripod or monopod handy.

Cool idea. Another pitch for Live View.

[JT]

Nice shot bcradio , when you spoke of using your strap taut to stabilize it reminded me of something I saw a while back took me a few minutes to find it  here it is.

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1041948/1_image_stabilizer_for_any_camera_lose_the_tripod/

[bcradio]

I've seen that method, I'm going to have to build myself one! (at that price, who can't afford it!) :-)

Here's a tip that works for aircraft that are static on the ground.  My D80 has a setting which raises the mirror a 1/4 second before the shutter releases.  This minimizes the vibrations that follow the mirror flicking up and out of the way.  It really works!

The mirror flipping up is not all that big of a cause of vibration, but when you're shooting at telephoto ranges, it can have a visible effect.  This setting really does help with these kinds of shots, and any other shots with a stationary target.  It might even work OK with a moving target, although your focus will be set a 1/4 of a second prior to the shutter firing.

[AirJeff]

At the Modesto Airshow I discussed this topic with another photographer, who after 18 years shooting in-house for Gallo Wines was told goodbye.  Anyway, I discussed this topic with him and he said "Oh, I don't worry...I just take care of it with Photoshop".  Say what?  Anyone heard of this?

[gdedward99s]

At the Modesto Airshow I discussed this topic with another photographer, who after 18 years shooting in-house for Gallo Wines was told goodbye.  Anyway, I discussed this topic with him and he said "Oh, I don't worry...I just take care of it with Photoshop".  Say what?  Anyone heard of this?

I suppose for a person with skills.
For me it is easier to catch the real thing than to shop it in...

[k5083]

At the Modesto Airshow I discussed this topic with another photographer, who after 18 years shooting in-house for Gallo Wines was told goodbye.  Anyway, I discussed this topic with him and he said "Oh, I don't worry...I just take care of it with Photoshop".  Say what?  Anyone heard of this?

I have learned to do it.  There is a "radial blur" tool in PS that comes in very handy.  To do it properly, you create an accurate front view in PS of the aircraft type's propeller using a scale drawing so you get the blade shape right.  Use a transparent background and do the prop in full color with colored tips, mfr's decals, whatever.  Use radial blur to blur it to whatever number degrees you want.  Then comes the tricky part, which is rotating and squeezing it to fit the prop arc of the plane at the angle you've photographed.  Of course you also have to retouch out the existing too-sharp prop and mask the portion of the fake prop that is blocked by the spinner, etc.

I use this primarily for spinning the props of static plastic model airplanes that I photographed, but also for some real airplane pics that I took years ago at 1/1000.  The results are quite convincing, I have posted them in several forums including this one and nobody has ever detected the fakery.  There are some limitations, (1) it doesn't work well when the angle on the aircraft is close to side-on and (2) it doesn't simulate the highlight of light glinting off the prop, or at least I haven't figured out how to do so.

August

[P38Ace]

Well I really need help... here is a sample of my well below average Prop Blur. I am very bad at it. Need Help

[Jorgo]

Simply put: slow the shutter speed, use less zoom (get closer), pan, practise.
It also helps to shoot when engines are at higher RPM (eg takeoff).